Ever wonder how we Artisan jewelry designers make our rings so round?? How do we determine the sizing?
I use two secret weapons. OKAY actually these are specialized tools. The first is this ring shank (officially called a mandrel but often referred to as a shank) The mandrel is made of the finest quality steel. It’s calibrated 
along one side so I can determine the size of the ring.
The second tool is this Delrin hammer. Delrin is a thermoplastic material used in precision parts. Since it is non-marring, I hammer away to my heart’s content. This hammer does not leave any marks on the metal, nor does it skew the metal.
Here is the process I use to design rings.
-
Cut the metal to size.
-
Stamp the back with my Alene branding (and the .925 if the metal is silver).
-
Add texture or fuse metal to the shank
-
Anneal it (heat it until the metal softens)
-
Insert the mandrel into a vise or other holding device to keep it stable
-
Form the metal around the mandrel to round it properly.
[tweet_box design=”box_02″ float=”none”] “Jewelry takes people’s minds off our wrinkles” Sonja Henie[/tweet_box]
Here are two of my new designs. See all ring designs currently for sale here.
Beautiful, Alene, Your love for your craft comes through with every word.
Wow, I’m in love with that hammer! I had no idea it existed. Reading about your process is always intriguing. Your best tool, though, is your brain. Being able to envision a design and bring it to life is an incredible talent!
Wow! I’ve been bingeing on The White Queen, The White Princess and now Reign. I’ve been amazed at the jewelry and the clothing design. Your jewelry is so beautiful Alene and some really was inspired by that period. What fantastic gifts for those who have everything!
While we can appreciate the beauty of a finished ring, I don’t think we realize how much work and skill it takes. The Delrin hammer sounds like a great tool I can think of a few things I’d like to hammer away with it. Thank you for sharing your process, Alene.
This sounds interesting. Never have paid attention on the how of jewelry before. Now, I have a different appreciation on the craft.